Yorkshire's Creative Hub: Home to Europe’s Largest Food Hall
As I walk around Sheffield I perceive a city undergoing transformation. With a £300 million revitalization project at its core, numerous new enterprises have emerged, many being independently owned and predominantly focusing on food-related ventures.
Although the Steel City experienced economic downturn due to deindustrialization in the 1970s, there is currently a resurgence of hope in areas such as Leah’s Yard In the early 19th century, this industrial workshop complex was revamped into a bustling center for local artisans.
Unusually, the South Yorkshire city boasts a significant graduate retention rate of about 40 percent, largely due to its more budget-friendly housing options, welcoming atmosphere, and closeness to the Peak District. The city thrives on creativity and entrepreneurship, featuring numerous trendy cafes, vibrant murals, and bustling food markets.
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During an extended weekend, my intention is to explore the culinary landscape and connect with some local figures who are driving the change in Sheffield.
Whether you're into chocolates from master craftsmen or spirited drinks for connoisseurs, and even those who love their dough and dumplings, "Sheff" hides plenty of delicious eats within its embrace, as the locals fondly call it.
The northern part of England boasts some of the United Kingdom's best eateries, including Tommy Banks' culinary domain in Yorkshire and Simon Rogan's establishment in the Lake District, as well as a Lancashire village named Aughton which has earned an impressive total of five Michelin stars. In Sheffield too, you can find exceptional dining options. Joro Leads the way in the New Nordic small-plates movement, yet cheaper rent rates and distinctive venues are drawing a fresh generation of business starters.
Coffee enthusiasts won’t be let down here. As I walk with my nose in the air, bypassing the 8 am workers heading towards Sheffield Town Hall, I feel transported. Marmadukes , a delightful café housed in a 19th-century townhouse on the cobblestone streets of Norfolk Row. The establishment was launched in 2012 by husband-and-wife team Clare and Tim Nye, who currently oversee three locations, with three of their four offspring actively participating in running the family enterprise. As I depart, I hold a velvety flat white in one hand and a fragrant, crumbly cardamom roll in the other.
Sheffield can be seen as a city divided into two parts. In the central area, you will come across the train station, the mild-climate Winter Garden, the Town Hall, and various shops. On the other hand, Kelham Island represents the heart of Sheffield’s industrial past.
A museum narrates the tale of steel, iron, and manufacturing. Each day, twice over, the thunderous sound of the 425-ton River Don Engine echoes through the area, serving as a testament to its past status as the strongest operating steam engine in all of Europe. This engine powered the armor plate rolling mill at Grimesthorpe Works, where steel was crafted primarily for use in shipbuilding endeavors.
Sheffield-born Arctic Monkeys is believed to have drawn inspiration from the formerly squalid neighborhood when composing their 2006 track "When the Sun Goes Down."
Currently, gentrification is transforming the area, introducing trendy bars, pop-up shops, and a food hall within a previously abandoned cutlery factory. This is where Joro initially launched, although it has since relocated to the village of Oughtibridge on the periphery of the city.
Exploring the culinary scene on Kelham Island serves as an excellent starting point. It’s fascinating to watch local pizzaiuoli from Sheffield skillfully stretch the dough by hand for their wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas. Brey’t Dough (A twist using Yorkshire dialect, meaning fine)
At a nearby ex-spring manufacturing plant turned cocktail haven called Factory Floor, bartenders demonstrate their skills with pour-over infused liquors from behind a lab-like counter. The drink featuring rum saturated with blackberries and allspice, combined with ginger ale, offers a sweet variation of a classic dark and stormy.
One prominent figure from Kelham Island is Max Scotford. Bullion Chocolate Born and raised in Sheffield, Max has always dreamed of becoming the next Willy Wonka. Starting from his own home, he established his brand and demonstrated that dedication and perseverance lead to success. His high-quality chocolate bars are known for their deep, robust flavors and can now be found in stores. Harrods and utilized in the kitchens at Claridge’s.
Scotford suggests an additional factor behind their achievement: "We ventured into nearby areas like Nether Edge and Sharrow Vale and discovered that locals were eager to back us. People in Sheffield have a strong affinity for locally made products. This has been instrumental in helping businesses like ours flourish."
Near his chocolate factory, within a previously used tool manufacturing facility, lies a vegan establishment. named Church - Sanctuary of Joy , a project initiated by Oliver Sykes, the lead singer of Bring Me The Horizon, who hails from Sheffield.
The interior design draws inspiration from religious icons, yet patrons often find themselves venerating the DJ or indulging in a spirited libational transcendence. The hallmark drink here is the Bloody Mary, which features locally made Henderson’s Relish—a Sheffield counterpart to Worcestershire sauce.
Moreover, there are the food halls, and Sheffield currently boasts four of them: Cutlery Works , Department (formerly Kommune), Sheffield Plate and Cambridge Street Collective , spanning 20,000 square feet, this facility stands as the biggest specially designed food market in Europe. Alongside it operates a connected culinary organization featuring rental masterclass kitchens aimed at addressing food scarcity and instability within the urban area.
Only time will reveal whether there is demand for numerous food halls. Nonetheless, these establishments have fostered the growth of the city’s culinary scene, provided secure spaces for budding entrepreneurs to start up with assured customer traffic, and possibly facilitated expansion into independent locations later on.
Wandering through the shops on Cambridge Street feels akin to taking a small-scale global culinary journey—Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Mexican, Indian, Palestinian, and West African cuisines are all represented here. I sample some offerings from the Japanese stall run by Edo; every piece of sushi is remarkably fresh and intricately prepared.
For my last treat, I'll start with some tuna carpaccio served with basil veloute, then move on to an indulgent prawn and nduja pasta dish at a well-loved Italian eatery. Grazie Restaurateur Vito Vernia has introduced the tastes of his homeland, Puglia, to the city, and it has greatly improved as a result.
Looking for an evening drink, I come across Public , a stylish cocktail bar situated in a previously male-only restroom behind the Town Hall. The Below Ground cocktail combines smoky mezcal with shiitake mushroom-infused vodka, prosecco, and burnt toast oil. Similar to Sheff, this drink stands out as distinctive, savory, and unforgettable.
How to get there
East Midlands Railway, Northern, TransPennine Express, and CrossCountry trains connect Sheffield with various locations across the United Kingdom.
Where to stay
Mercure Sheffield St Paul’s Hotel & Spa has rooms from £73.
Leopold Hotel has rooms from £85.
Radisson Blu Sheffield has rooms from £78.
Where to visit
A Sampling of Kelham Food Tour is £65pp
More information
welcometosheffield.co.uk